Applied Coastal Oceanography
rocky coasts

Rocky Coasts extend over
75% of the world's continental and island margins
definition: rocky and
resistant
material that produces a steep profile
origins of
rocky coasts

- commonly
tectonically-active
convergent coasts
- unrelated to
tectonic activity
- formed from
skeletal shell debris

processes
operating
along the coasts
physical processes
- wave energy focus
- reflected
- forms clapotis
- pressurized air
is
trapped
- abrasion of
waveborne particles
- weathering due to
temperature
differences
storms do not appear to have
a
significant effect on rocky coasts
biological processes
- plants and animals
bore into
the surface
- grazing animals
that
scrape
the surface
chemical processes
- oxidation of iron
minerals (similar
to rusting)
- reaction with
carbonic
acid

Geomorphology
primarily shaped by
long-term
wave action
cliffs

- steepness:

- other: high,
steep
bluffs

beaches: occur
at foot of cliffs; low energy between headlands
benches (shore platform): intertidal
- origin:
combination of
wave
action and weathering (water-layer leveling - small pools of standing
water)
terraces: subtidal
- tectonic activity
may
raise
a terrace above sea level - becomes a bench
sea stacks and arches:
due to differential erosion and differential wave attack
- sea arches
breach in narrow headland at water level
- sea stacks:
separated
headland from mainland coast - isolate

these are rapid changes
in geologic time...